How to Store and Transport Miniatures Without Damaging Paint

Quick answer

The safest routine is simple: let paint and glue cure fully, seal each model with a protective varnish, then store it so nothing touches the paint and nothing shifts in transit. Metal, plastic, and resin models all follow the same rules, but thin parts need extra clearance. A dedicated miniature carrying case with foam trays or magnetic bases beats a shoebox every time.

Painting is the slow part; damage happens in seconds. A model that rubs against a neighbour for one car ride can lose a face, snap a spear, or grind paint down to bare plastic. Most of that is preventable with the right storage and a repeatable packing routine.

This miniature transport guide walks through the order that matters: cure, seal, choose a container, pack, carry, and unpack. It works for Malifaux crews, board game minis, and display pieces alike. The one rule that never changes: nothing should touch painted surfaces, and nothing should be free to move.

Why miniatures get damaged in storage

Almost all miniature damage comes from three forces: abrasion, compression, and impact. Abrasion is paint rubbing against foam, another model, or a hard case wall. Compression is weight pressing down on a thin part, like a spear or a wing, until it bends or snaps. Impact is the whole box taking a hit and transferring that energy into the models inside.

Knowing which force you are fighting tells you what to fix. A loose model in a padded box only faces impact, so it needs a snug fit. A tightly packed box of metal models faces abrasion and compression, so it needs separation and clearance. Most storage mistakes come from solving one force while ignoring the other two.

• Metal models are heavy and can crush lighter plastic neighbours if packed loose.
• Resin and thin plastic parts bend or snap before they chip.
• Painted surfaces chip fastest on hard edges: shoulders, weapons, and capes.

Step 1: Let paint and glue fully cure before packing

Fresh acrylic paint stays soft for hours and can stay slightly tacky for a day or more depending on humidity. If you pack a model too soon, foam presses into the paint and leaves a permanent texture, or two models stick together and tear on separation. Give painted models at least 24 hours in open air before they go into any container.

The same applies to glue. Super glue and plastic cement continue to cure after the joint feels solid. A model packed the same day can shift slightly, and a joint that would have been fine becomes a weak point. If you just assembled a metal model, wait a full day before it goes in a case.

Common mistake: packing a model while it still smells faintly of varnish or glue. That smell means solvent is still leaving the surface. Wait.

• Cure time is not optional; it is the cheapest insurance you have.
• If you are in a hurry, a small fan in a dust-free room speeds drying.
• Never stack freshly painted models directly on each other.

Step 2: Seal the paint with varnish before storage

Varnish is the single best protection for painted miniatures. A matte or satin varnish creates a hard, slightly flexible layer that absorbs the small scrapes that would otherwise lift paint. Without it, even gentle foam contact can dull a highlight or wear through a thin layer.

Apply varnish in thin coats and let each coat dry fully. Two thin coats beat one heavy coat, which can pool in recesses and stay soft. If you use a spray, shake it well and test on a spare model first; humidity above roughly 70 percent can cause a cloudy finish.

Common mistake: varnishing a model that still has wet paint underneath. The varnish traps the solvent and the finish stays soft for days.

• Matte varnish hides handling wear better than gloss on most tabletop models.
• A gloss coat under a matte coat adds extra protection without shine.
• Varnish metal models too; metal paint chips even more easily than plastic paint.

Step 3: Choose the right miniature carrying case

There are three practical container types: foam trays in a rigid case, magnetic bases in a metal-lined case, and compartment boxes with dividers. Foam is the cheapest and most forgiving for odd shapes. Magnets are fastest to load and best for models with flat bases. Compartment boxes suit a handful of large or fragile models that need hard walls.

Match the case to the model. A crew of 32mm heroic scale miniatures fits foam trays well. A single large centrepiece with thin wings needs either custom foam or a compartment with clearance. If you are not sure, buy one tray and test-fit before committing to a full case.

Common mistake: buying a case that is too shallow. Measure your tallest model including any banner or raised weapon before you order.

• Rigid outer shell matters more than the foam inside.
• A case with a handle and a latch is easier to carry safely than a tote bag.
• Leave at least 10mm of clearance above the tallest part of each model.

Step 4: Pack with foam trays or magnets, not loose

Foam trays work by holding each model in its own cut-out. Place models base-down, not on their sides, so weight sits on the base rather than on a weapon or cloak. If a model is loose in its slot, add a small piece of foam or bubble wrap to stop it sliding. If it is tight, do not force it; a tight fit bends parts over time.

Magnetic storage works differently. Glue a magnet under each base, then place the model on a metal-lined tray or the steel floor of a case. The magnet holds the base flat and stops sliding, but it does nothing for tall, top-heavy models. For those, add a foam block or a strap above the model so it cannot tip.

Common mistake: packing models so they touch each other. Even light contact during a car ride abrades paint. Space them out or separate them with foam.

• Put heavy metal models on the bottom layer, lighter models above.
• Never store models upside down unless the case is designed for it.
• Keep detachable parts in a small labelled bag, not loose in the tray.

Step 5: Transport safely and unpack with care

In transit, the case should not be able to slide. Put it on the floor behind a seat or wedge it so it cannot tip. Heat matters too: a closed car in summer can soften varnish and warp resin, so do not leave miniatures in a hot vehicle. If you are flying, pack the case in carry-on if allowed, because checked baggage gets thrown.

Unpack on a clean, flat surface with good light. Lift models by the base, never by a weapon or a wing. Check for loose parts before you put the model on the table, and keep a small repair kit with super glue and a spare paint pot for touch-ups.

Common mistake: unpacking on a crowded table. One elbow is enough to send a model off the edge. Clear space first.

• Label trays so you can repack in the same order every time.
• Take a photo of the packed case before a trip; it helps you repack correctly.
• After any trip, check bases and joints before the next game.

The six-step storage and transport sequence

1. Cure: Leave painted and glued models in open air for at least 24 hours before they go into any container. Checkpoint: no smell of solvent, no tacky feel on the surface.
2. Seal: Apply two thin coats of matte or satin varnish, letting each coat dry fully. Checkpoint: a uniform finish with no cloudy patches.
3. Choose a case: Pick foam trays, magnetic bases, or a compartment box based on model shape and height. Checkpoint: at least 10mm of clearance above the tallest part.
4. Pack: Place models base-down, spaced apart, with no contact between painted surfaces. Checkpoint: shake the closed case gently; nothing should rattle or slide.
5. Transport: Secure the case so it cannot slide, and keep it out of a hot car. Checkpoint: the case stays put during a hard brake.
6. Unpack: Use a clean, clear surface, lift by the base, and inspect joints before play. Checkpoint: no loose parts and no new chips.

Products that fit this routine

• Malifaux Third Edition: When Pigs Fly: Contents: Merris LaCroix and three Flying Piglets. Miniatures are 32mm heroic scale, supplied unpainted in high-quality plastic, and require preparation and assembly. Small flying models with thin wings are the classic case for foam trays with clearance above the model, or magnetic bases plus a foam block so they cannot tip in transit.
• Malifaux Third Edition: Yasunori: Contents: Yasunori. Miniatures are 32mm heroic scale, supplied unpainted in high-quality plastic, and require preparation and assembly. A single mounted model is top-heavy and tall. Measure it before buying a case, and plan for a deeper tray or a dedicated compartment rather than a standard 32mm slot.
• M3E Fate Deck - Explorer's Society Theme: Made of high-quality linen cardstock. Two Fate Decks are needed to play the game, one for each player. Cards bend and scuff in a bag with metal models. Keep decks in a separate card pocket or small box, away from the case that holds miniatures.

Storage is not glamorous, but it is the difference between a crew that looks new after a year and one that needs repainting. Cure, seal, choose a case that fits your tallest model, pack with clearance, and unpack on a clear surface. Do that every time and your miniatures will survive the trip as well as the game.