How to Paint The Other Side Miniatures: Tips for Larger-Scale Models

Quick answer

Paint The Other Side miniatures by working in thin layers: assemble and clean, prime, basecoat, shade, layer highlights, then seal. Larger 32mm scale models reward this patient approach with more visible detail than smaller figures. Expect to spend a few hours per model, and always test your paint consistency on a spare surface before committing to the miniature.

The Other Side miniatures are 32mm scale, which means they offer more surface area and detail than typical skirmish figures. That extra size is a gift for painters, but it also punishes rushed work: every thick layer and missed mold line shows up clearly. This guide walks through a reliable order of operations for painting Wyrd miniatures, from pre-assembly to final varnish.

You do not need a studio setup to get good results. A few quality brushes, a wet palette, and a consistent step-by-step routine will carry you through a whole crew. The steps below assume you are painting for tabletop play, not competition display, so we prioritize durability and readable contrast over perfect blends.

Why The Other Side models paint differently

The Other Side miniatures are supplied preassembled and unpainted according to catalog listings, which changes your starting point. You skip the build phase but still need to check for mold lines, flash, and gaps. The 32mm scale also means larger flat areas and deeper recesses, so your basecoat and wash stages do more visual work than on smaller models.

Larger scale models also make brush control more forgiving. You can use bigger brushes for basecoating and still reach details with a fine tip. The tradeoff is that mistakes are equally visible, so thin your paints and build coverage gradually. If you are used to 28mm skirmish figures, slow down and treat each section as its own mini-project.

• Work under a daylight lamp so you can see true color and surface defects.
• Keep a damp cloth nearby to wipe excess paint before it reaches the model.

Step 1: Inspect and prepare the model

Before any paint touches the model, check every surface for mold lines, flash, and gaps. Even preassembled miniatures can have seams where parts meet. Use a hobby knife held at a shallow angle to scrape mold lines away, then smooth the area with fine sandpaper or a polishing stick. A clean surface is the foundation for every later step.

Wash the miniature gently with warm water and a drop of dish soap, then let it air-dry completely. This removes release agent and oils from handling. If you skip this, primer can bead up or flake off later. Once dry, mount the model on a painting handle or a temporary base with poster putty so you are not touching the figure directly.

• Checkpoint: run a fingernail across the surface. If you feel a ridge, keep scraping.
• Do not use hot water, which can soften or warp resin and plastic parts.

Step 2: Prime for contrast and grip

Primer gives paint something to grip and establishes your starting value. For The Other Side models with lots of detail, a medium-gray or light-gray primer is a safe default because it shows both shadows and highlights. Black primer hides mistakes but can mute colors, while white primer makes bright colors pop but punishes uneven coverage.

Apply primer in thin, even passes from about 20 to 30 centimeters away. Start with a light dusting, let it tack up, then build a second pass. You want full coverage without filling recesses. If the weather is humid or cold, bring the model and primer indoors and work in a well-ventilated area to avoid a grainy finish.

• Common mistake: spraying too close and flooding detail. Two thin passes beat one heavy coat.
• Checkpoint: every surface should read as a single even tone with no shiny bare patches.

Step 3: Basecoat with thin layers

Basecoating is where the model starts to look like a finished piece. Thin your paint to a skim-milk consistency and apply two or three layers per color, letting each dry before the next. Larger models have more surface area, so mix enough paint for the whole section rather than remixing mid-way and risking a color shift.

Work from the inside out: skin, then clothing, then straps and gear, then metal. This order lets you clean up edges as you go. If you are painting a crew like the Guild, keep your palette limited to a few core colors and repeat them across models for a cohesive look. Consistency matters more than any single perfect layer.

• Common mistake: painting over wet paint. Let each layer dry to avoid tearing.
• Checkpoint: hold the model at arm's length. If the color reads clearly, move on.

Step 4: Shade recesses deliberately

A wash or shade pulls detail out of the model and adds depth. On larger-scale models, you can be more selective: apply shade only into recesses, under folds, and around rivets rather than washing the whole figure. This controlled approach keeps your basecoat clean and avoids the muddy look that all-over washes can create.

If you prefer an all-over wash, thin it with a little medium and wick away excess from flat areas with a clean brush. Let it dry fully, then evaluate. You can always add a second targeted pass. The goal is contrast, not darkness. For metallic areas, a dark wash followed by a light drybrush of the original metal color restores shine.

• Common mistake: letting wash pool on flat surfaces. Soak it up with a dry brush.
• Checkpoint: recesses should be visibly darker without streaking on raised areas.

Step 5: Layer highlights and edge definition

Highlighting is what makes a 32mm model read across a table. Pick a color one or two steps lighter than your basecoat and paint it onto raised areas: cheekbones, shoulder tops, knuckles, and armor plates. Use the side of your brush for edges and the tip for small details. Build up in two stages, a mid-tone then a brighter spot highlight.

Do not try to highlight everything. Choose a consistent light direction, usually from above and slightly forward, and follow it across the whole model. If you are painting multiple models for a crew, keep the same light direction and highlight colors so they look like a single force. This is also where you can add a subtle spot color to draw the eye to a face or weapon.

• Common mistake: using pure white for every highlight. Save white for the sharpest points.
• Checkpoint: squint at the model. If the highlights disappear, they are too subtle.

Step 6: Finish the base and seal the paint

A finished base grounds the model and protects the lower edges. Texture paint, sand, or small rocks all work, followed by a drybrush and a few tufts or debris. Keep the base palette muted so it does not compete with the miniature. For The Other Side, a rubble or industrial theme suits the game's setting well.

Once the base is dry, seal the model with a matte varnish. This protects the paint from handling during play and unifies the finish. Apply two thin coats rather than one heavy coat, and let each dry completely. If you want a slight sheen on metal or glass, brush a gloss varnish only on those specific areas after the matte coat has cured.

• Common mistake: varnishing in high humidity, which can cause a frosted look.
• Checkpoint: tilt the model under a light. A uniform matte finish means you are done.

Your painting sequence at a glance

1. Prepare and clean: Remove mold lines, wash the model, and mount it on a handle. Skipping this step is the most common cause of flaking primer.
2. Prime in thin passes: Use a gray or light primer and build coverage with two light coats. Check that recesses are not filled before moving on.
3. Basecoat in layers: Thin your paints and apply two or three layers per color, inside out. Let each layer dry to avoid tearing the paint.
4. Shade selectively: Apply wash into recesses and folds, wicking away pools on flat areas. Contrast should be visible but not muddy.
5. Highlight with purpose: Pick a consistent light direction and layer highlights in two stages. Squint test: highlights should still read at arm's length.
6. Base and varnish: Finish the base, then apply two thin coats of matte varnish. A uniform finish means the model is ready for the table.

Products that fit this painting routine

• The Other Side: Nian: Nian x6, 32mm scale, supplied preassembled and unpainted. A full squad gives you repeated practice with the same steps, which is ideal for building brush control on larger-scale models.
• The Other Side: Marauder: Marauder x1, 32mm scale, supplied preassembled and unpainted. A single large model with a rider and vehicle surfaces lets you practice smooth basecoats and edge highlights without a huge time commitment.
• The Other Side: Abyssinia Fabric Patch: 2-inch fabric patch with the Abyssinia design. A small way to show your allegiance while you paint, and it can mark your hobby case or paint station.

Painting The Other Side miniatures is a matter of patience and order, not talent. Follow the sequence above, keep your layers thin, and let each stage dry. Your first model will teach you more than any guide, and your tenth will look noticeably better. Start with a single Nian or the Marauder, and build from there.