How to Fix Common Malifaux Miniature Assembly Problems

Quick answer

Most Malifaux assembly problems come down to one of four causes: bent or warped parts, gaps at the join, weak or failed glue bonds, or mismatched parts. Fix them in that order: straighten first, dry-fit second, glue third, fill gaps last. If a part is cracked, missing, or badly miscast, stop and contact the store rather than forcing a repair.

You have clipped a Malifaux miniature out of its frame, cleaned the parts, and started test-fitting. Then something does not line up. A sword arm sits at the wrong angle, a torso gap swallows light, or a joint pops apart the moment you set the model down. None of this means you did something wrong. It means you have hit one of the handful of assembly problems that almost every Malifaux hobbyist runs into.

This guide separates each problem by symptom, likely cause, corrective action, and the point where you should stop and choose another option. Work through the diagnosis in order. Most fixes take minutes, and the ones that do not are usually the ones where forcing the part causes more damage than the original problem.

Bent or warped parts: why they happen and how to straighten them

Symptom: a weapon, limb, or long thin component curves when it should be straight, or a flat piece will not sit flush. Likely cause: heat and pressure during storage or shipping, or thin plastic that cooled under tension. Corrective action: warm the part gently and evenly, then hold it straight while it cools. A hairdryer on low, or warm (not boiling) water, works for most plastic components. Move the part slowly, over-bend very slightly past straight, and hold until it feels rigid again.

Do not use direct flame, a heat gun on high, or boiling water on thin parts. Plastic softens fast and can stretch, blister, or lose surface detail before you notice. If the part is small and fragile, straighten it in stages rather than all at once. For 32mm heroic scale miniatures such as those in Malifaux Third Edition: In the Saddle, which includes Uncle Bogg and three Buckaroos, the long weapons and reins are the usual candidates for a gentle straightening pass before you glue anything.

• Warm, bend slightly past straight, hold until cool and rigid.
• Work in stages on thin parts; check alignment against the dry-fit before committing.
• Never force a cold part straight; it will crack or stress-mark.

Gaps at the join: filling without losing detail

Symptom: a visible seam or hole where two parts meet, even after you press them together. Likely cause: mold lines or flash left on the mating surfaces, a slight warp, or parts designed with a small tolerance that glue alone will not close. Corrective action: clean both mating surfaces first, dry-fit again, and only then decide whether the gap is real. If it is, fill it with a fine-grained filler or a thin bead of gap-filling super glue, then smooth it before it fully cures.

The mistake most people make is reaching for filler before cleaning the join. Flash and mold lines can hold parts apart by a fraction of a millimeter, which looks like a gap but is actually debris. Scrape the mating faces with a hobby knife held at a shallow angle, test the fit, and re-glue. If a gap remains after cleaning, apply the smallest amount of filler you can and wipe the excess with a damp brush or fingertip before it sets.

• Clean mating surfaces before you decide a gap is real.
• Use the least filler possible; you can always add more, but removing cured filler risks detail.
• For organic shapes, blend filler into the surrounding surface while it is still soft.

Weak or failed glue bonds: surface prep and joint support

Symptom: a part falls off during handling, or a joint feels soft and moves under light pressure. Likely cause: glue applied to a smooth or contaminated surface, too little surface area at the contact point, or a joint that carries weight without support. Corrective action: remove the old glue, scrape both contact points to create a slightly rough surface, and re-glue with a small amount of fresh adhesive. For load-bearing joints, pin them with a short piece of paperclip or brass rod if the part is thick enough to drill.

Pinning is not always necessary, and on very thin parts it can split the model. Reserve it for arms holding heavy weapons, large wings, or any joint that has already failed once. If you are assembling a crew with several similar joins, such as the five Mindless Zombies in Malifaux Third Edition: Residents of Rottenburg, test one joint fully before repeating the same approach across the whole group. A method that works on a raised arm may not suit a low, tucked pose.

• Scrape smooth contact points before re-gluing; fresh glue on old glue rarely holds.
• Pin only load-bearing joints, and only where there is enough material to drill safely.
• Test one joint in a multi-model set before committing to the same method for all of them.

Mismatched or ill-fitting parts: when to stop and ask

Symptom: a part clearly belongs to a different pose, a socket is the wrong shape, or a component is cracked, short-shot, or missing detail. Likely cause: a mispacked component, a miscast, or a part swapped during cleanup. Corrective action: stop. Do not sand, bend, or force a mismatched part into place. Compare the part against the assembly image or contents list, separate your components by model, and contact the store with your order details if something is genuinely wrong.

This is the point where home repair stops being the right option. Forcing a miscast part usually damages the surrounding model and can void your ability to get a replacement. The same applies to a part that has already cracked during cleanup: if the crack runs through a visible surface, a repair will show. Set the model aside, keep the parts together, and ask before you cut or glue further.

• Separate components by model before you start, so a swap is easy to spot.
• Never force a part that does not fit; check the contents list first.
• Keep cracked or missing parts together and contact the store rather than improvising.

Prep work that prevents most assembly problems

Almost every problem in this guide gets easier with better prep. Wash plastic parts in lukewarm water with a drop of dish soap to remove release agent, then let them dry fully. Scrape mold lines and flash from mating surfaces, not just from visible outer faces. Dry-fit every joint before you open the glue. Keep your parts organized by model so you are never guessing which arm goes where.

A little patience at this stage saves a lot of repair time later. If you are working through a larger project, such as a multi-model set like Malifaux Third Edition: Trade Secrets, which includes Youko Hamasaki, the Unseen, Brewmaster, the Moonshiner, and Shōjō, prep and dry-fit one model completely before starting the next. It is easier to keep track of small components when only one model is on the desk at a time.

• Wash, dry, scrape, and dry-fit before any glue touches the model.
• Keep one model's parts on the desk at a time to avoid mix-ups.
• Check alignment against the assembly image before the glue sets.

Assembly problem diagnosis

• Part curves or will not sit flush: Warm the part gently and evenly, bend slightly past straight, and hold until rigid. Clean mating surfaces before re-testing the fit. If the part cracks or blisters while warming, stop and treat it as a damaged part.
• Visible gap after gluing: Scrape flash and mold lines from both mating faces, dry-fit again, then apply the smallest amount of fine filler or gap-filling glue needed. If the gap remains wide after cleaning, check for a mismatched or miscast part before adding more filler.
• Joint keeps failing: Remove old glue, roughen both contact points, re-glue with fresh adhesive, and pin the joint only if it carries weight and has enough material to drill. If a joint fails twice on a thin part, stop pinning attempts and consider a different pose or contact point.
• Part does not belong or is damaged: Do not sand or force it. Compare against the contents list, keep the parts together, and contact the store with your order details. This is the point where home repair stops being the right option.

Where these fixes apply in the Malifaux range

• Malifaux Third Edition: In the Saddle: Uncle Bogg leads three Buckaroos, and the set is 32mm heroic scale, supplied unpainted in high-quality plastic, requiring preparation and assembly. Long reins and weapon arms in a multi-model set are the most likely parts to arrive bent and the best candidates for a gentle straightening pass before gluing.
• Malifaux Third Edition: Residents of Rottenburg: Asura Roten and five Mindless Zombies are 32mm heroic scale, supplied unpainted in high-quality plastic, and require preparation and assembly. With six models sharing similar joins, this is a good set to test one glue method on a single joint before repeating it across the whole group.
• Malifaux Third Edition: Trade Secrets: Youko Hamasaki, the Unseen, Brewmaster, the Moonshiner, and Shōjō are 32mm heroic scale, supplied unpainted in high-quality plastic, and require preparation and assembly. Several distinct models in one box reward working one model at a time, which keeps small components from getting mixed up during dry-fitting.
• IONIC Malifaux: Forged in Malifaux NMM Gold & Silver Paint Set: A 12-color palette developed by AMMO in collaboration with Wyrd, built for non-metallic metal using controlled shadows, strong midtones, and sharp highlights. Once the model is assembled and gaps are filled, this set is a practical next step for painting metal areas without metallic paint, provided the joints are clean and smooth first.

Most Malifaux assembly problems are solvable with warm water, a hobby knife, fresh glue, and a little patience. Straighten bent parts before you glue, clean joins before you fill, and stop the moment a part is cracked, missing, or clearly wrong. That last step is not a failure; it is how you protect the model and keep your options open for a replacement.