How to Create Custom Bases for Malifaux and The Other Side Models

Quick answer

Build custom miniature bases by matching the base size to the model, planning a theme that fits its faction, and layering materials from coarse texture to fine detail. Work in thin stages and let each layer dry fully. For Malifaux, 32mm heroic scale models use 30mm, 40mm, or 50mm bases; for The Other Side, larger models use 40mm, 50mm, and 80mm bases. Always check the model's base size before you start.

Custom bases do more than hold a model upright. They tell you which crew it belongs to, anchor it on the table, and make every painted figure look intentional. If you have ever set a finished Malifaux or The Other Side model on a plain black disc and felt it was missing something, basing is the fix.

This guide walks through the whole process, from choosing a base size and theme to applying texture, adding base inserts, and sealing the finished piece. You will also see how a few real kits from the Wyrd range suggest themes you can build around, whether you want swampy Bayou ground or a scorched battlefield for a Titan.

Match the base to the model and the game

Before you buy or build anything, confirm the base size the model is meant to use. Malifaux Third Edition miniatures are 32mm heroic scale and typically ship with 30mm, 40mm, or 50mm bases depending on the model's role. The Other Side uses larger bases, commonly 40mm, 50mm, and 80mm, because its units and Titans are bigger. Using the wrong size can affect how the model sits in a unit and how it measures on the table.

Once the size is correct, think about the silhouette. A wide, low model like a Razorspine Rattler reads well on a base with open ground and a few tall weeds, while a bulky character benefits from a raised rock or debris pile that fills the empty space. The base should support the pose, not fight it.

• Check the model's unit entry or the base it shipped with before you commit to a size.
• Place the unassembled model on the bare base and rotate it until the pose looks natural from the front.
• If the feet overhang, shift the model back slightly rather than trimming the base.

Choose a theme that fits the faction

The strongest themed miniature bases start with one clear idea: a swamp, a ruined street, a frozen ridge, a ritual site. Look at the model's faction and keyword for cues. Bayou crews like Big Hat or Angler suggest mud, reeds, planks, and water. Guild and Resurrectionist models suit cobblestones, iron railings, and grave dirt. Neverborn and Chimera models look at home among roots, bones, and overgrown forest floor.

You do not need a different theme for every model. A consistent scheme across a crew makes the whole force look cohesive and helps you identify units at a glance. Pick two or three materials you can repeat, then vary the arrangement so each base still feels individual.

• Write your theme in one sentence before you open any materials.
• Limit yourself to three main textures so the bases stay readable on the table.
• Keep the theme consistent across a crew, but vary height and placement between models.

Gather your basing materials

A practical basing kit covers four jobs: bulk texture, medium structure, fine detail, and finishing. For bulk, use sand, grit, or textured paint. For structure, use cork sheet, small stones, or resin base inserts. For fine detail, use static grass, tufts, tiny roots, or pre-made scatter. For finishing, use thinned PVA glue, super glue, and a matte varnish.

Base inserts are the fastest route to a themed look because they drop straight into the base and give you a sculpted surface to paint. If you cannot find an insert that matches your idea, build the same effect with cork and sand. The trade-off is time: inserts save hours, while scratch-built bases give you more control over the exact composition.

• Keep a small dropper bottle of thinned PVA for gluing sand and flock.
• Store mixed materials in labeled tubs so you can rebuild the same look later.
• Test new materials on a spare base before using them on a finished model.

Build the base in layers

Start with the largest shapes. Glue cork or stones down first and let them set completely. Next, add medium texture like sand or grit, pressing it into a layer of thinned PVA. Once that is dry, add fine detail such as static grass, tufts, or small debris. Working coarse to fine keeps the smaller materials from disappearing under the bigger ones.

Keep the model's footprint clear as you build. Dry-fit the miniature after each layer, especially around the feet and any cloaks or tails that sweep low. If a layer raises the ground too high, the model will look like it is sinking or floating, and you will have to rebuild.

• Let each layer dry fully before adding the next one.
• Dry-fit the model constantly, not just at the end.
• Leave a small flat area where the feet or contact points will sit.

Prime, paint, and seal the base

Prime the finished base along with the model so the two share a consistent undercoat. Paint the base from the ground up: dark earth tones first, then drybrush lighter colors over the raised texture. Add any water effects, blood, or glowing details last. A matte varnish locks the texture in place and stops flock from shedding during play.

If you are painting a base insert, treat it like a miniature surface. Wash it to bring out the sculpted detail, then drybrush to catch the high points. The same approach works on cork and stone, which is why a single color recipe can cover several different materials.

• Prime the base and model together so the finish matches.
• Drybrush after washing to bring texture back to life.
• Seal with matte varnish to protect flock and scatter during handling.

Step-by-step basing process

1. Confirm the base size: Check the model's unit entry or the base it shipped with. Malifaux 32mm heroic scale models use 30mm, 40mm, or 50mm bases; The Other Side models use larger sizes including 40mm, 50mm, and 80mm. Checkpoint: the model's feet sit fully inside the base edge with room for texture.
2. Pick one theme per crew: Choose a single environment that fits the faction and keyword, such as swamp for Bayou or scorched ground for Cult of the Burning Man, and repeat it across the crew. Checkpoint: you can describe the theme in one sentence.
3. Glue down the large shapes: Attach cork, stones, or a resin base insert first. Press firmly and let the glue cure before adding anything on top. Checkpoint: nothing shifts when you press a finger on it.
4. Add medium texture: Spread thinned PVA and press in sand or grit. Tap off the excess and let it dry. This layer creates the ground the model stands on. Checkpoint: texture covers the base evenly with no bare plastic showing.
5. Add fine detail: Place static grass, tufts, roots, and small debris. Keep the model's footprint clear so the feet still make contact. Checkpoint: the model dry-fits without floating or sinking.
6. Prime and paint: Prime the base with the model, then paint from dark earth tones up to lighter drybrushed highlights. Add water, blood, or glow effects last. Checkpoint: the base reads clearly from arm's length on the table.
7. Seal the finished base: Apply a matte varnish over the whole base to lock in flock and scatter. Let it cure fully before you handle the model in a game. Checkpoint: no loose material comes off on your fingers.

Kits that suggest a basing theme

• Malifaux Third Edition: Hootenanny: Georgy and Olaf bring three Banjonistas and enough noise to turn any Big Hat gathering into an event. Faction: Bayou, Keyword: Big Hat. Miniatures are 32mm heroic scale, supplied unpainted in high-quality plastic, and require preparation and assembly. A Big Hat Bayou crew gives you a clear theme: muddy ground, reeds, and scattered planks. Build all five bases with the same swamp recipe so the band reads as one unit.
• Malifaux Third Edition: Razorspine Rattler: Three Razorspine Rattlers coil, strike, and disappear through the wilds. Faction: Neverborn, Keyword: Chimera. Contents: Razorspine Rattlers x3. Miniatures are 32mm heroic scale, supplied unpainted in high-quality plastic, and require preparation and assembly. Chimera models suit overgrown forest floor. Use roots, leaf litter, and low tufts on each base, and vary the arrangement so the three snakes do not look identical.
• The Other Side: Goryshche: The Burning Man's passing twisted a hydra into a many-headed nightmare that refuses to die cleanly. Goryshche restores disabled and scrapped Assets, regenerates through prolonged assaults, and batters enemy formations apart with maws large enough to threaten even Commanders. Allegiance: Cult of the Burning Man, Role: Titan. A Titan needs a base that supports a large silhouette. Use scorched earth, cracked stone, and ash to match the Cult of the Burning Man, and build up a low rise so the model does not look flat.

Custom bases are one of the fastest ways to make a crew look finished. Match the size, pick one theme, build in layers, and seal the result. Start with a single model, and once the process feels natural, base the rest of the crew to match.