How to Assemble Your First Malifaux Miniatures: A Beginner's Step-by-Step Guide

Quick answer

To assemble your first Malifaux miniatures, work in a clean, well-lit space with a hobby knife, sprue cutters, fine sandpaper or a file, and plastic glue. Clip parts from the sprue, clean mold lines, dry-fit every joint before gluing, and pin any small or heavy components. Take your time and test-fit twice before committing to glue.

Malifaux miniatures are 32mm heroic scale, supplied unpainted in high-quality plastic, and require preparation and assembly. That means you will need to clip, clean, and glue each component before you can prime and paint. The good news is that the process is straightforward once you know the order of operations.

This guide walks you through every stage, from opening the box to attaching your finished model to its base. You will also find checkpoints to catch mistakes before they become permanent. Whether you are building a starter crew or adding a single character, the same habits apply.

Gather your tools and prepare your workspace

You do not need a professional studio, but a few inexpensive tools make assembly much easier. A pair of sprue cutters, a hobby knife with fresh blades, a fine file or sanding stick, and plastic cement are the essentials. A cutting mat protects your table and keeps small parts from rolling away. Good lighting is not optional—it helps you spot mold lines and tiny connection points.

Set up in a well-ventilated area away from pets and children. Keep a small tray or cup for loose components so you do not lose them. If you wear glasses, put them on; many Malifaux parts are small and easy to mix up. A clean, organized workspace reduces the chance of gluing the wrong piece.

• Use a dedicated hobby knife with a sharp blade; dull blades slip and cause injuries.
• Keep a damp cloth nearby to wipe excess glue from your fingers before it sets.

Clip parts from the sprue and clean mold lines

Start by clipping components from the sprue, leaving a small amount of plastic attached to the part. Cut away from your body and let the sprue fall onto your mat. Do not twist or pull parts free—that can tear the plastic and create gaps. Once all parts for one model are free, use your knife and file to remove the remaining nub and any mold lines.

Mold lines are thin ridges where the two halves of the mold met. They are easiest to see under bright light. Scrape them gently with the back of your knife blade or sand them smooth. Be careful around fine details like fingers, weapons, or cloth folds; it is better to leave a faint line than to carve away detail.

• Work over a tray so small parts do not disappear into carpet.
• Check each part against the assembly instructions before cleaning to avoid mixing up similar pieces.

Dry-fit every joint before you glue

Dry fitting means holding or taping parts together without glue to check alignment. Do this for every connection, especially arms, heads, and weapons. Malifaux kits are designed to fit well, but slight mold release or a leftover nub can create a gap. If a joint does not sit flush, clean it again rather than forcing it.

For tricky sub-assemblies, use a small piece of putty or sticky tack to hold parts in place while you check the pose. Once you are happy with the fit, decide whether to glue the whole model at once or in stages. Gluing in stages lets you reach tight areas and keeps your fingers out of fresh glue.

• If a part feels tight, do not push harder—find the obstruction and remove it.
• Photograph your dry-fit pose before gluing so you can refer back if something shifts.

Glue in a sensible order and use the right amount

Plastic cement works by melting the plastic surfaces together, so you only need a tiny amount. Apply it with a fine applicator or a toothpick. Start with the torso and legs, then add arms, head, and finally accessories. This order gives you a stable core to hold while attaching smaller pieces. Let each joint set for a few seconds before moving on.

If you are building a multi-part model like a character with a cape or a large weapon, consider leaving that piece off until after you have painted the body. This is called sub-assembly painting. It is not required, but it makes hard-to-reach areas much easier to paint later.

• Less glue is more; excess cement can blur detail and create a shiny mess.
• If a joint will not hold, clean both surfaces and try again—do not add more glue.

Pin small or heavy parts for a stronger bond

Pinning means drilling a tiny hole in both parts and inserting a short piece of metal wire or paperclip to reinforce the joint. It is not always necessary, but it is worth doing for thin ankles, weapon hands, or any part that sticks out and might snap off during handling. A pin also helps align parts that are hard to hold.

To pin, use a hand drill with a bit slightly thinner than your wire. Drill into the center of each contact point, test the fit with the wire, then glue the wire into one side and the part onto the other. Keep the pin short—just enough to add strength without poking through the other side.

• Pin before gluing; once the glue sets, drilling is much harder.
• Use a marker to dot the matching spot on the other part so your holes line up.

Attach the finished model to its base

Most Malifaux miniatures come with a base, but the base itself may need preparation. Clean any mold lines and decide whether you want to add texture or leave it plain. If you are adding sand, rocks, or other basing material, do that before priming. For a simple start, glue the model to the base with plastic cement or super glue, making sure the feet sit flat.

If your model has a tab that fits into a slot in the base, dry-fit it first. Some hobbyists prefer to cut the tab off and pin the feet directly to the base for a more natural stance. Either approach works; the key is a stable, flat contact. Let the glue cure fully before priming.

• Check that the model stands without wobbling before the glue sets.
• If you plan to paint the base separately, leave the model off until after painting.

Step-by-step assembly checklist

1. Prepare your workspace and tools: Set out sprue cutters, hobby knife, file, plastic glue, and a cutting mat in a well-lit, ventilated area. Keep small parts in a tray. Checkpoint: you can see and reach everything without clutter.
2. Clip and clean each part: Cut parts from the sprue leaving a small nub, then trim and file away mold lines. Work over a tray to avoid losing pieces. Checkpoint: no visible ridges or nubs remain on contact surfaces.
3. Dry-fit all joints: Hold or tape parts together without glue to check alignment. Clean again if anything does not sit flush. Checkpoint: parts meet with no gaps and the pose looks correct.
4. Glue in stages: Start with the torso and legs, then add arms, head, and accessories. Use a tiny amount of plastic cement and let each joint set. Checkpoint: the model stands on its own before you move on.
5. Pin weak or heavy joints: Drill a small hole in both contact points, insert a short wire pin, and glue. This adds strength to ankles, weapon hands, and protruding parts. Checkpoint: the pinned part feels secure when you gently wiggle it.
6. Attach to the base: Clean the base, add any texture, and glue the model's feet flat. Let the glue cure fully before priming. Checkpoint: the model does not wobble and sits level on the base.

What you get in a Malifaux kit

• Malifaux Third Edition: In the Saddle: Uncle Bogg leads three Buckaroos into the saddle; faction: Bayou; keyword: Angler. Miniatures are 32mm heroic scale, supplied unpainted in high-quality plastic, and require preparation and assembly. A multi-model kit like this is a good first assembly project because you get several similar figures to practice cleaning and gluing before moving to more complex characters.
• Malifaux Third Edition: Story of Suzaku: The Story of Suzaku steps from the page in fire and feathers; faction: Ten Thunders; keywords: Oni, Story. Miniatures are 32mm heroic scale, supplied unpainted in high-quality plastic, and require preparation and assembly. Single-character kits often have delicate details, so take extra care when cleaning mold lines and consider pinning the feet or any thin parts.
• Malifaux Third Edition: Wokou Raiders: Three Wokou Raiders bring saltwater speed and shifting loyalties to Bandit and Last Blossom crews; faction: Outcasts; keywords: Bandit, Last Blossom. Miniatures are 32mm heroic scale, supplied unpainted in high-quality plastic, and require preparation and assembly. A small squad like this is ideal for learning batch assembly: clean all parts first, then glue in stages so you do not lose track of which arm goes with which body.

Assembling your first Malifaux miniatures is a skill you build with each model. Start with a simple kit, take your time on cleanup and dry-fitting, and do not be afraid to pin anything that feels fragile. Once your first crew is built, you will have the confidence to tackle more complex projects.